⚠️ Early Access Notice
This guide is based on My Winter Car Early Access (December 29, 2025 release). The game is actively in development — some bolt sizes, part names, or mechanics may change in future updates. Cross-reference with the latest community resources if in doubt.
1. Before You Start — Overview & Prep
Building the Corris Rivett is the central goal of My Winter Car. Unlike My Summer Car (where the Satsuma was waiting in your garage), the Rivett must be purchased, transported, and built entirely from scratch with over 200 individual parts. This guide covers the complete build from shell to road.
Corris Rivett Quick Specs
| Specification | Details |
|---|
| Inspired by | Ford Taunus TC1 (1971–1976) |
| Engine | 2.0L SOHC Inline-4 (Ford Pinto TL20H) |
| Stock Power | ~98 HP @ 5,500 RPM |
| Drivetrain | Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD) |
| Transmission Options | 4-speed manual / 5-speed manual / 3-speed automatic (varies by VIN) |
| Rev Limiter | None — over-revving causes engine damage |
| Total Parts (approx.) | 200+ unique components |
| Shell Purchase Price | ~500 mk |
| Total Build Cost (est.) | 8,000–14,000 mk (depending on part condition) |
🚨 No Rev Limiter Warning
The Corris Rivett has no electronic rev limiter. Over-revving will cause catastrophic engine damage. Always watch the tachometer, especially during initial tuning runs. Avoid "money shifting" (accidentally downshifting at high RPM).
Essential Setup Before Building
- Choose the parents' house garage — it has a motor hoist for engine installation and is climate-controlled. The apartment has neither.
- Read your VIN plate before ordering parts — your trim level (L, LX, SLX, or GT) determines carburetor type, differential, and interior. See our VIN Decoder Guide for full details.
- Save up money first — have at least 5,000–8,000 mk before starting the full build. Use the Jobs & Money Guide for fast income strategies including firewood deliveries (400–800 mk per run).
- Stock up on tools — you need a full socket wrench set and a screwdriver. Both are available at PSK (Teimo's shop).
- New player? Read the Beginner's Guide first for controls and phone numpad basics.
2. Buying the Corris Rivett Shell
Purchasing the shell is the first step of your build. Many players get stuck here because of the phone call system. Follow these exact steps:
1 Find the Advertisement Poster
Look for a car sale poster inside PSK (Teimo's shop) or at the gas station. The poster displays the seller's phone number: 08-609 553.
2 Make the Phone Call
Go to the phone in your apartment or parents' house. Dial 08609553 using the numpad (NOT the number row at the top of your keyboard).
❌ Common Mistake
Do NOT type the dash or space. Enter only the 8 digits: 08609553. Typing "08-609 553" causes the call to fail with an error beep. Also do not hang up early — wait for the seller to end the call himself, or the purchase is cancelled.
3 Check Your Map for the Marker
After the call succeeds, a "Car for sale" map marker will appear. Drive there during daylight hours using the Sorbett, Kekmet, or Gifu — the seller won't transact at night.
4 Pay and Receive the Rivett
Approach the seller and pay roughly 500 mk. You will receive:
- The Corris Rivett bare body/chassis (disassembled)
- 10–12 random parts in varying condition
- A randomly assigned trim level: L, LX, SLX, or GT
- A random exterior color, interior color, and manufacturing year (1971–1976)
5 Transport the Shell to Your Build Location
Use the Kekmet with trailer (most reliable, slow but safe) or the Gifu flatbed (faster, harder to control). Tow the shell to the parents' house garage for the best build conditions. For detailed towing tips, see our Vehicles Guide.
3. Parts Sourcing Strategy
Sourcing 200+ parts is one of the biggest time sinks. Plan your purchases efficiently — orders from the Classifieds Magazine take approximately 2 in-game days to arrive, so order in batches. For a complete breakdown, see our dedicated Parts Acquisition Guide.
Parts Source Comparison
| Source | Part Quality | Price | Best For |
|---|
| 📰 Classifieds Magazine (PSK) | Used — varies | Cheaper | Most mechanical parts, wait 2 days |
| 🔧 Fleetari's Shop (Loppe) | NOS — guaranteed | Expensive | Engine internals, electrical, performance |
| 🏧 Flea Market (Kirpputori) | Used — random | Low | Body trim, cosmetics, rare finds |
💡 Strategic Ordering Tip
Order suspension parts from the Classifieds first while you plan the engine build. Use the 2-day wait time to earn more money rather than sitting idle. Buy critical engine internals (pistons, crankshaft, camshaft) from Fleetari if available — NOS parts won't fail prematurely.
Unique Parts — Cannot Be Replaced
The following components are one-of-a-kind — treat them with care. If they are destroyed, your build is severely compromised:
- Engine Block — unique to your VIN
- Cylinder Head — unique to your engine block
- Steering Column — cannot be ordered as a spare
Start with the chassis and suspension — this is the foundation of the entire build. A solid suspension base makes engine installation far easier. Reference our Tuning Guide if you plan to adjust ride height or shock damping later.
Front Suspension Assembly
🔩 Front Suspension — Recommended Order
- Steering rack — 4 bolts (9mm)
- Steering shaft — 1 bolt (6mm)
- Steering column — 2 bolts (12mm) — unique part, handle with care
- Front lower control arm — 1 bolt (14mm)
- Front upper control arm — 2 bolts (14mm)
- Front brake assembly — 2 bolts (12mm) + 1 bolt (11mm)
- Front link — 2 bolts (11mm) + 1 bolt (12mm)
- Front shock absorber — 2 bolts (8mm) + 1 bolt (12mm)
- Coil spring (front) — fits after shock absorber
Rear Suspension Assembly
🔩 Rear Suspension — Recommended Order
- Rear lower control arm — 1 bolt (13mm)
- Rear upper control arm — 1 bolt (15mm)
- Rear axle — 4 bolts (15mm)
- Rear coil springs
- Rear shock absorbers — 2 bolts (13mm) per side
Brakes & Steering
- Install brake master cylinder and connect brake lines
- Install brake calipers front (disc) and brake drums rear
- Connect the handbrake cable
- Install pedal assembly inside the cabin
💡 Bolt Troubleshooting
If a part won't snap into place — check that the previous part's bolts are fully tightened. This is the #1 cause of assembly problems. Hover your cursor over a bolt to see its size in the top-left corner of the screen.
Build the entire engine on the garage workbench before installing it into the car. Assembling in the engine bay is significantly harder and error-prone. This is where the game rewards patience and attention to detail. For a complete deep-dive, see our Engine Build Guide.
Complete Engine Parts Checklist
⚙️ Bottom End
- Engine Block
- Crankshaft
- Main Bearings
- Connecting Rods
- Pistons (×4)
- Oil Pump
- Oil Pan
- Oil Filter
🔝 Cylinder Head
- Head Gasket
- Cylinder Head
- Camshaft
- Rocker Arms / Followers
- Rocker Cover
⏳ Timing System
- Auxiliary Shaft
- Auxiliary Shaft Sprocket
- Camshaft Sprocket
- Timing Belt
- Timing Belt Cover
- Crankshaft Pulley
🔥 Fuel & Ignition
- Carburetor (1- or 2-barrel)
- Fuel Pump (mechanical)
- Spark Plugs (×4)
- Distributor
- Ignition Leads (×4)
- Air Filter
❄️ Cooling
- Water Pump
- Water Pump Pulley
- Thermostat
- Fan
- Fan Belt
⚡ Electrical + Transmission
- Alternator
- Starter Motor
- Rear Plate
- Flywheel
- Clutch Disk
- Clutch Cover Plate
- Clutch Pressure Plate
Engine Assembly Step-by-Step
1 Block Foundation — Install Bottom End
- Place the engine block on the workbench
- Install the crankshaft into the block
- Install main bearings and secure with bolts
- Attach connecting rods to crankshaft
- Install 4 pistons onto connecting rods (flip block for access)
- Mount the oil pump
- Attach the oil pan
2 Cylinder Head Installation
- Lay the head gasket onto the engine block
- Lower the cylinder head onto the block and torque all bolts
- Install the camshaft
- Attach rocker arms / cam followers
- Fit the rocker cover
3 Timing Belt System — Critical Section
- Install the auxiliary shaft and auxiliary shaft sprocket
- Install the camshaft sprocket
- Remove the crankshaft pulley and water pump/pulley before routing the belt
- Route the timing belt over all three sprockets: crankshaft → aux shaft sprocket → camshaft sprocket
- Reinstall the water pump and pulley
- Reinstall the crankshaft pulley
- Attach the timing belt cover (2× 6mm bolts to cylinder head)
⚠️ Critical: Timing Alignment
The timing system must be correctly aligned — the camshaft sprocket arrow must align with the engine head stamp, and the crankshaft pulley must align with the engine block stamp. Incorrect timing is the most common reason a correctly-built engine won't start.
4 Fuel, Ignition & Cooling Components
- Install the thermostat
- Mount the water pump
- Attach the fan to water pump
- Install the fuel pump (mechanical type, bolts to block)
- Mount the carburetor to intake manifold
- Attach the air filter
- Install distributor with correct orientation
- Insert 4 spark plugs and connect ignition leads
5 Electrical Components & Clutch Assembly
- Mount the alternator and fit the fan belt (adjust tension — not too loose, not too tight)
- Install the starter motor
- Attach the rear plate to back of block
- Install the flywheel
- Fit clutch components in order: Clutch Disk → Clutch Cover Plate → Clutch Pressure Plate
- Install the oil filter (hand-tighten only)
- Attach the exhaust manifold / headers
✓ Engine Complete — Pre-Installation Check
Before installing the engine into the car, verify: all bolts are tightened, the oil filter is fitted, timing belt cover is on, and no tools were accidentally left on the engine stand.
With the engine fully assembled on the workbench, it's time to drop it into the car. The motor hoist in the parents' house garage makes this dramatically easier.
1 Lower Engine into Bay
Use the garage motor hoist to lift the assembled engine and lower it carefully into the engine bay. Position it over the engine mounts before releasing.
2 Bolt Engine to Mounts
Secure the engine to all four engine mounts. Ensure all mount bolts are fully tightened — loose engine mounts cause vibration and potential damage.
3 Install Transmission
Choose your transmission based on VIN trim:
- 4-speed manual — standard on L, LX trims
- 5-speed manual — aftermarket upgrade available via Classifieds
- 3-speed automatic — optional on some trims
Bolt the gearbox to the engine. Connect the clutch cable (cable-operated, not hydraulic).
4 Connect Driveshaft & Exhaust
- Attach the driveshaft from gearbox to rear differential
- Connect the exhaust system — headers → downpipe → muffler
- Ensure exhaust hangers are properly mounted to prevent rattle
⛽ Fuel System
- Install the fuel tank in the trunk/underfloor area
- Connect fuel lines from tank to mechanical fuel pump to carburetor
- Install the fuel filter inline
- Check all fuel line connections for leaks before adding fuel
🌡️ Cooling System
- Mount the radiator at the front of the engine bay
- Connect upper and lower coolant hoses to radiator and engine block
- Inspect all hoses for cracks — a split hose will cause overheating
- Install the fan belt
- Fill with coolant after the engine is installed
⚠️ Coolant & Oil — Don't Skip Fluids
Running the engine without coolant or oil even briefly causes irreversible engine damage. Always fill all fluids before attempting the first start: engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, and fuel.
Wiring is one of the most common stumbling blocks for new players. For the complete connection diagram, see our dedicated Wiring Guide.
⚡ Core Wiring Sequence
- Install the battery (12V, buy fresh from Teimo) — connect positive (+) terminal first, then negative (−)
- Connect thick cable from battery positive → Starter Motor
- Run battery positive → Fuse Box
- Wire Fuse Box → Ignition Switch
- Connect Ignition Switch → Distributor
- Connect 4 Spark Plug leads from distributor (firing order: 1-3-4-2)
- Wire Alternator → Voltage Regulator → Main Harness
- Connect headlights, taillights, turn signals via fuse box
- Wire dashboard gauges: speedometer, temperature, fuel, oil pressure
🚨 Polarity Warning
Always connect positive (+) before negative (−). Reversing terminal order causes electrical shorts. If a component doesn't work, check the fuse box first.
Wiring Checklist Before First Start
- Battery terminals tight — positive connected first
- Starter motor wiring correct
- All 4 spark plug leads connected and in correct firing order
- Alternator wire connected to regulator
- Fuse box installed and all fuses present
- Ignition switch connected and functional
- Headlights and taillights functional
Wheels & Tires
🛴 Tire & Wheel Installation
- Wheel type depends on your VIN trim: steel wheels (L trim), alloy wheels (SLX, GT)
- Each wheel is secured with 4 bolts (15mm)
- Use a jack to raise the car before fitting wheels
❄️ Winter Tires Are Mandatory
Summer tires on Finnish snow/ice will cause the rear-wheel-drive Rivett to spin out dangerously. Always use winter tires in cold conditions.
Body Panels
| Panel | Bolts | Notes |
|---|
| Front Fenders (×2) | 5mm × 5 each | Install before hood |
| Hood | 6mm × 4 | Access bolts from below, front grille area |
| Doors (×2) | 10mm × 4 each | Heavy — take your time aligning hinges |
| Trunk Lid | 6mm × 4 | Hinges under rear window |
| Front Bumper | 8mm × 2 | Block heater cord hangs from here |
| Rear Bumper | 8mm × 2 | — |
| Front Grille | 6mm × 2 | Beside headlights |
| Mudflaps (×4) | No bolts | FR, FL, RR, RL labels |
Interior Components
- Front seats — driver and passenger, 4 bolts (9mm) each
- Rear seat — clips into position, no bolts
- Dashboard — 2 bolts (10mm); must be installed before the hood
- Steering wheel — attaches to steering column
- Lower dash cover — required to access the choke knob
- Interior panels and carpet
- Rear interior panel — no bolts, clips behind seat
💡 Lower Dash Cover — Critical!
The lower dash cover must be installed before you can access the choke knob. Without it, you cannot cold-start the car.
10. First Start, Cold Start Procedure & Carburetor Tuning
Pre-Start Checklist
- All engine bolts tightened — no loose parts
- Engine oil filled to correct dipstick level
- Coolant filled in radiator
- Brake fluid in master cylinder
- Fuel in tank (minimum half tank recommended)
- Battery fully charged, terminals tight (positive first)
- All 4 spark plug leads connected
- Timing belt correctly aligned (camshaft arrow to head stamp)
- Wiring checked — alternator, starter, fuse box all connected
- Lower dash cover installed (for choke access)
- Block heater plugged in overnight if temperature below −15°C
Cold Start Procedure — Step by Step
❄️ Cold Start in Winter
- If temperature is below −15°C: Plug the black heater cord from the front bumper into the outdoor socket. Leave overnight (minimum 4 hours). Unplug before driving.
- Enter the car and insert the ignition key
- Dry crank — no choke, no throttle for ~5 seconds. This primes the carburetor fuel bowl without flooding the cylinders.
- Pull the choke knob (lower dash cover, left of steering column) fully out
- Crank the engine for 5–10 seconds. It should catch and fire.
- If it doesn't start, release and wait 15 seconds before trying again
- Once running, let the engine idle for 2–3 minutes with choke partially out
- Watch the coolant temperature gauge — when the needle starts to rise, gradually push the choke back in
- Engine should now run smoothly at normal idle. You're ready to drive.
🚨 Flooded Carburetor Fix
Over-cranked with full choke? Push choke fully IN, press accelerator pedal to the floor, and crank for 10 seconds. This clears excess fuel from the cylinders. Wait 5 minutes before retrying.
Carburetor Tuning
🔧 AFR Gauge Tuning (Recommended)
Order an AFR (Air-Fuel Ratio) gauge from the Classifieds Magazine.
- Let engine reach operating temperature
- Install and read the AFR gauge
- Adjust carburetor mixture screws until you achieve an AFR of approximately 13.5–14.0
- Adjust idle speed screw so engine idles smoothly without stalling
- Take a short test drive and readjust if necessary
Build Complete — Final Checklist
✓ Road-Ready Checklist
- All four winter tires mounted and torqued
- All body panels fitted (hood, doors, trunk, bumpers)
- Headlights working (front and rear)
- Turn signals functional
- Brake lights working
- Horn installed
- Wipers functional
- Handbrake holds the car on a slope
- All fluids filled and checked
- No visible fuel or coolant leaks
- Steering has no excessive play
- All doors open and close properly
- Dashboard gauges functioning
- Carburetor tuned (AFR ~14)
- Block heater cord stowed or connected
- Book car inspection at Fleetari
🎉 Congratulations!
If all boxes above are checked, your Corris Rivett is road-ready. Head to Fleetari's shop to book the vehicle inspection (katsastus). Consider checking the Racing Guide or Tuning Guide for your next challenge.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a full build take?
Most players complete the build in 15–25 hours of in-game time. New players may take longer due to sourcing delays. Experienced players can complete the build faster by batch-ordering parts in advance.
What's the cheapest way to build the Rivett?
Order as many parts as possible through the Classifieds Magazine (used, but cheaper). Reserve Fleetari purchases for critical engine internals. Expect a total cost of around 8,000–10,000 mk with this strategy. See our Money Guide for fast income methods.
Can I build in the apartment instead of the garage?
Technically yes, but the apartment has no motor hoist, making engine installation much harder. The parents' house garage is strongly recommended.
My engine cranks but won't start — what do I do?
The most common causes are: (1) Incorrect timing belt alignment, (2) Lower dash cover missing (no choke access), (3) Flooded carburetor, (4) Wiring fault — check all 4 spark plug leads and starter motor connections, (5) Dead or cold battery. See our full Troubleshooting Guide for step-by-step diagnosis.
What trim level is best for performance?
The GT trim is the top spec with two-barrel carburetor, limited-slip differential, and performance suspension. The SLX trim is a good alternative with most performance features. See our Corris Rivett Guide for full trim comparisons.